For a meat eater accustomed to choosing free-range over battery chickens, the sight of a seething, twitching mass of brown legs…

“For a meat eater accustomed to choosing free-range over battery chickens, the sight of a seething, twitching mass of brown legs and antennae on the floor of Big Cricket Farms raises a tricky question: Are these crickets happy living in a fibreglass trough? How would one even know?”

Nicola Twilley, ‘Big Cricket’ (2014)